Skip to main content

Author: Pradeep Rai

Pradeep Rai is a writer, ethnographer, and educator exploring the cultures, histories, and worldviews of Himalayan tribes. His work combines careful research with reflective storytelling, bringing the legacies and traditions of the Himalayas to life for readers.

Tracing the Roots of Gurung Ethnogenesis

Although many younger Gurungs today are becoming increasingly detached from their historical awareness, the elders still know their history. Tamu Gurung history is a framework of information produced through processes of interpretation by consensus, and transmitted orally. It is a story that extends back in time over numerous generations and is periodized by folklore, legends, lineage, and some sparsely written records preserved or noted by scholars.

Published accounts of Gurung history often describe them as a community with a distinct language, a clan-based social order, and a long association with military service. But a closer examination reveals a densely textured social polity, layered histories of migration, evolving linguistic patterns, and deep genetic lineages that together have molded Gurung identity over many centuries.

The Gurungs, or Tamu, are one of Nepal’s most prominent tribal groups, historically concentrated in Lamjung, Gorkha, Kaski, Manang, Parbat, Syangja, and Mustang across the Gandaki region of Nepal.


Oral Narratives & Genetic Research

Oral traditions, a significant aspect of Gurung traditions, preserve key insights into Gurung origins.  Among these, the Pye ta’n Lhu ta’n holds a central place as a corpus of ancestral narratives, genealogical memory, and migratory history. Although rarely written down and traditionally transmitted through ritual specialists, fragments accessible today reveal that these recitations often describe the movement of early Gurung ancestors from northern uplands into the regions they now inhabit. The use of metaphoric phrases such as “from above to below” encodes a collective memory of descent from higher elevations, potentially from the trans-Himalayan or Tibetan plateau zones, into the mid-hills of present-day Nepal.

Scholarly references to Pye ta’n Lhu ta’n, based on field recordings, limited transcription projects, and community knowledge, suggest that these narratives are not linear histories but dense, mnemonic story cycles that combine mythic origin motifs with culturally specific accounts of migration and settlement. Since the tradition remains largely oral and ritually performed, complete versions are not publicly available. Nevertheless, the surviving summaries make it abundantly clear that Gurung historical consciousness has long been articulated through these symbolic and metaphorically layered accounts.

This pursuit of the history of Tamu Gurung migration has yielded compelling evidence, particularly through the work of Tek Bahadur Gurung. Unlike earlier research, which relied primarily on anthropological observation, his study is based on both genetic data and the comparative analysis of oral traditions. This unified approach provides strong evidence that Gurung ancestry shares significant components with Mongolian, Tibetan, and Naxi/Yi populations. This evidence supports the hypothesis that Gurung ancestors migrated into central Nepal via trans-Himalayan highland corridors. Moving from the upper reaches of the Yellow River basin and adjacent regions, they entered the into the mid-hills of the Gandaki and settled there. By positing Gurung ancestry within a “triangular zone” encompassing Kokonor (Qinghai, China), the upper Yellow River, and southwestern China, Tek Bahadur Gurung’s findings provide a detailed empirical data that traces the entire migration pathway of the ancient Gurung people.

Tek Bahadur Gurung’s research also emphasizes the value of oral traditions alongside genetic evidence. By comparing the narrative of Pye ta’n Lhu ta’n with genetic data, his research has been able to find surprising similarities between genealogical fact and ancestral narratives. Together, this evidence throws light upon the complexity of Gurung identity, which, though local, is also influenced by long-distance migrations and multigenerational historical memory.

The proposed migratory timeline is as follows:

  • ~8,000 years ago: Ancestral Gurung populations migrate from the upper Yellow River region.
  • ~6,000 years ago: Movement through Yunnan, China.
  • ~100 BC: Settlement in southern Tibet.
  • >2,000 years ago: Arrival and permanent settlement in Nepal’s Gandaki mid-hills.

These findings align with oral traditions to validate a north-to-south migratory trajectory.

Language and Linguistic Identity

The Gurung language is called Tamu Kyi which belongs to the Sino-Tibetan family, specifically the Tibeto-Burman branch. Its tonal system and grammatical structures link it closely to northern Himalayan and Tibetan languages. Historically, it used the Khema script, though modern usage often employs Devanagari or Tibetan scripts. The diversity of dialects across villages which has occurred due to geographic separation also shows how settlement patterns and historical migration affected linguistic variation.

Social Structure and Settlement Patterns

Unraveling Gurung history requires that we carefully consider social structure that have been used to frame their clan hierarchies. Historical impositions of caste-like divisions (e.g., “char jaat” vs. “sora jaat”) are not indigenous structures. Gurung’s follow a clan-based social structure with a village-level governance system that seems to have deep historical roots that predate their settlement in the Gandaki mid-hills. Features such as kinship-based organization and decentralized leadership through figures like the Chima (local chieftain) as well as collective land tenure and resource management are widely observed among Tibeto-Burman and highland Sino-Tibetan populations. Similarly, settlement patterns with villages situated at moderate elevations with access to arable land, grazing pastures, and control over trade routes are strategies used by highland communities. Gurung settlements in central Nepal replicate the continuation of these adaptive strategies. This is indicative that their spatial and economic organization represents both continuity from ancestral highland traditions and innovation in response to the ecological and political realities of the Gandaki hills.

Modern Identity

After establishing settlements in the Gandaki mid-hills, the Gurungs organized their society around clan-based governance. Villages were led by an advisory council known as Kroh. They managed land and mediated disputes, and were responsible for coordinated collective defense during conflicts. Oral traditions hold that certain clans, particularly the Ghale, held elevated status and occasionally assumed regional leadership roles. Although these leaders did not wield central authority over all Gurung settlements, they were able to coordinate with other Klenge (ministers or administrators) and influential clan chiefs.

During the late medieval period, Gurung territories faced several military challenges from expanding neighboring powers like the Khasan and the Shah dynasty of Gorkha. The Ghale leaders in Lamjung and adjacent regions negotiated their authority in relation to these external states. Over time, local governance was largely decentralized but the influence of these small rulers was increasingly restricted. Oral histories describe political struggle, alliances, skirmishes, and tribute arrangements between Gurung clans and nearby rulers.

The unification of Nepal in the 18th century under the Shah monarchy marked a turning point for Gurung political autonomy. The Kroh lost formal sovereignty, and the state’s administrative and military powers permeated traditional Tamu territories. Despite this, Gurungs held on to their clan cohesion and continued to follow traditional governance structures. The Gurungs’ martial reputation led many to serve in the Gurkha regiments of Nepal and abroad.

Contemporary Implications of Historical Research

The ancestral history of the Tamu Gurung people came to be reframed by external powers and state-imposed caste hierarchies. Recent studies which combine oral tradition, early documentation, linguistics, and DNA evidence challenge these frameworks. Evidence of northern Himalayan origin, supported by genetics and migration narratives, shows a trans-Himalayan historical trajectory that predates Hindu caste integration in the region.  This reinterpretation has contemporary significance in that it allows the Gurungs to reclaim an identity based on both pre-Hindu social structures and northern migration history, and provides a basis for cultural and political autonomy.

The Ritual World of the Newar Gubhaju

Much is said of the Newar Gubhaju in the oral sphere, where his name appears sporadically in Newar folklore and in incidental recollections of community elders. In spite of this narrative, there is little sustained scholarship devoted specifically to the Gubhaju. The available material is scattered across short ethnographic observations and fragments of ritual description. Even so, these accounts reveal a practitioner who stands at the center of Newar religious synthesis. The Gubhaju, positioned within the Bajracharya tradition, operates through a repertoire that draws simultaneously from Hinduism, Buddhism, Tantric, and Shamanic practice. This convergence is not incidental to his identity. It is one of the clearest examples of how Newar ritual life brings multiple traditions into a single working system, and it demonstrates a form of religious integration that is rarely encountered in such a comprehensive and coherent expression.

The etymology of the term Gubhaju is unclear. In classical Nepalbhasa (Newari) the term bhaju refers to a respected elder, but the origin of the initial element gu is more difficult to establish. A long-standing explanation links it to the Sanskrit guru, although this connection is not convincing. The title of Gubhaju belongs to an indigenous ritual setting, and it is difficult to account for why a Sanskrit term would be abbreviated and absorbed into a role that developed within Newar religious practice.

A more credible interpretation links gu (गुँ), pronounced with a nasal sound, to the meaning of forest, which appears related to the older Kirata root gum. This interpretation is supported by local traditions in Sankhu, around the Vajrayogini temple area. This was historically known as Gum Bahal, a vihara or sacred Buddhist temple, a site confirmed sacred in Lichhavi inscriptions. The title Gubhaju, therefore, could mean practitioners whose mastery of esoteric mantras and tantric practices were refined within this sacred space.

In the Kathmandu valley today, the Gubhaju holds a distinctive position within the Buddhist domain and the wider ritual life of Newar communities. He is often identified as a Buddhist household priest though his work extends into domains that carry deeper ritual weight. His function includes tantric liturgy, spirit mediation, and a range of curative rites that address affliction and misfortune.

Gubhaju belongs to the Newar Bajracharya or Sakya lineages. These lineages form the bare ‘initiated householder monk’ stratum of Newar Buddhism, a group of ritual specialists who maintain family life while fulfilling priestly responsibilities and who remain distinct from celibate bhikṣu orascetic. The Gubhaju’s initiation ceremony, also known as acha lhuyegu, is a moment of symbolic renunciation and return. This temporary ordination grants ritual authority without the establishment of a permanent monastic vocation.

Within the broader social landscape of the Kathmandu Valley, the Gubhaju occupies a dual position. He is both household priest and mantra specialist. His ritual expertise draws patrons from Buddhist, Hindu, and animist Newar communities alike, which other than the longstanding pattern of religious convergence, also reflects collective Newar cultural identity. Although he remains somewhat peripheral to everyday temple routines and public religious discourse, the Gubhaju remains an important figure is the Newar collective memory as a respected elder and a figure whose presence is augmented through legend, rites, spiritual power, and the moral imagination of the community.

Oral traditions portray him as a master of potent spells capable of summoning rain and immobilizing spirits. His exhibits the power to heal all ailments, and sometimes even bring the dead back to life. In a well-known folk tale, the legendary Jamana Gubhaju subdues a malevolent spirit by commanding it to grind rice until dawn, a task that renders the entity harmless and protects the entire village.

Such narratives preserve emic categories of spiritual mastery, siddha gu, ‘to have attained power’ and demonstrate how charisma, ritual skill, and moral authority converge in the Newar imagination. The story recounts how the Gubhaju attained this mastery:

In the old days, Jaman Gubhaju was in a quest for deeper knowledge when no lineage teacher would reveal the practices he sought. This search led him to the Pode settlement on the city’s edge, near ponds and cremation grounds. There he met an elderly Pode known for managing unseen forces. The old man agreed to teach him, writing mantras on belpatri leaves and instructing him to practice beside a pond, for true mastery required facing the beings that move through such liminal spaces.

The Pode told him the mantras would only gain power once he obtained Mohani, a “black shoot” used by dakinis. Gubhaju was instructed to wait at the Balkumari shrine on the fourteenth night of the dark fortnight. At midnight he hid and watched the dakinis dance around three skulls and a pot of Mohani. At the right moment he seized the pot and fled. The dakinis chased him, but his mother barred the door with an iron chain, which repelled them. They demanded the pot, and Gubhaju returned a small portion, keeping the rest as instructed.

At dawn he applied the Mohani to his forehead and recited the mantras. The legend says this moment granted him siddhi and gave him the power to heal, to see spirits, and to confront forces that disturb the living.

A Gubhaju’s ritual duties extend across the life-cycle ceremonies of the Newar life. From Machaabu byankeyu (birth ritual), Bhusaa Khaayegu (first hair cutting), Ihi (marrige to a bel fruit) or Bara Tayegu (marrige to the Sun), Ghasu (death purification rite), a Gubhaju is the preferred officiant for all such ceremonies. Beyond these foundational responsibilities, he performs pitha puja for mother goddesses, bhuta shanti for spirit appeasement, and la gukegu for the retrieval of a lost life force. This ritual variety reveals a continuous harmony between Buddhist liturgy and animistic healing traditions. When misfortune or illness arises, he diagnoses the disturbance through divination that interprets the behavior of rice grains, oil, or a lamp flame. The subsequent rites involve aagwanegu for the welcoming of deities, bhujinigu for feeding spirits, and naasaaḥ paayegu for the removal of malevolent forces. His mantras, often drawn from the Saptavidhi and Kriyaasaṃgraha, are recited in a melody while ringing the ghaṇṭa and wielding the vajra. These are instruments that symbolize ritual authority and the union of wisdom and method.

Healing rites occupy a central place in his repertoire, especially soul retrieval, in which the Gubhaju locates the displaced spirit through divination and then invokes protective deities (dya) while visualizing a mandala that provides the symbolic ground for reclaiming the life force. The restored soul is reintegrated into the afflicted person through sacred water, incense smoke, or chants, accompanied by the pulse of the bell (ghaṇṭa) and the stabilizing presence of the thunderbolt weapon (vajra), all of which support the subtle trance state that validates the efficacy of the rite.

Taken together, these practices reveal the Gubhaju, other than being a ritual performer, is an embodiment of a synthesis of Vajrayana Buddhism and indigenous traditions. His work sustains household and community stability while combining priestly duties with shamanic mediation. His use of chants, ritual tools, esoteric knowledge, and divination displays specialized knowledge transmitted through lineages, and his cross-sectarian engagement highlights a practice-based understanding of religious efficacy.

Although he performs functions similar to a Shaman (Jhankri), the Gubhaju operates within the moral and textual discipline of Vajrayana though his authority is grounded in lineage and scripture. In doing so, he moves between the institutional and the ecstatic, which may resemble shamanic practices but remains distinctive in its own right.

His healing practice is based on the fusion of sacred sound and sanctified substances. The ritual ground is marked as a mandala with colored powders that symbolize a cosmological boundary. Through mantra, the Gubhaju channelizes the presence of deities such as Vajrapaṇi Dyah, Lokeshvara, and mother goddesses like Ajima, to heal the afflicted. When confronting hostile forces, he may conduct nasaḥ payegu, a rite of expulsion in which the spirit is symbolically confined within a pot (ghata bandhan). These rites form the vajra-kriya, a tantric act that unites spiritual potency with practical healing.

For Newars, this work is neither “magic” nor “religion” but dyaḥgu or divine activity. This comes to be a category that dissolves analytic boundaries between ritual, medicine, and sorcery.

Even within a Buddhist framework, the Gubhaju’s ritual behavior displays clear shamanic resonances. Like the Nakchhongs of the Kirati or the Pachyu of the Gurung, he mediates between deities, spirits, and humans, negotiating with unseen beings (nhaḥ lhu gu) to retrieve la (life-force) lost through shock, illness, or ritual transgression. During healing rites, he may enter a light trance known as dyah michaḥ yāyeku (when the deity descends), in which divine presence briefly occupies his voice. His chant becomes a rhythmic dialogue across human and spirit realms. The Gubhaju are also called for the expulsion of wandering spirits or the affliction of malevolent witches (Bokshi), thereby bringing him closer to the category of Shamans.

Gubhajus are often called upon to remove wandering spirits or to counteract the harmful influence of malevolent witches, situating them within a category of ritual specialists comparable to shamans. Their performances follow a carefully structured system that integrates sound and incantations. The ringing of the ritual bell with a measured recitation of sacred words along with the deliberate circulation within the ceremonial space together generate a powerful sensory environment that engages both human participants and unseen spiritual forces.

From an anthropological perspective, these rites enact a form of cosmic realignment, though for the community they are understood more concretely as the restoration of vital life‑energy and communal harmony.

Modernity has reshaped the social position of the Gubhaju. In Kathmandu, many younger Bajracharyas now pursue secular professions, leaving ritual work largely to senior specialists. The spread of biomedical explanations and the rise of reformist Buddhism have further reduced the space for tantrik karmakaṇḍa (Esoteric practices). However, during major festivals and religious events, the Gubhaju remains indispensable for purification and the installation of deities (dyah-micha). In smaller towns and among rural Newars of Kirtipur, Thecho, and Thimi in Kathmandu, Gubhajus continue to perform most rituals and remain influential in Newar social life. Their ongoing presence displays the adaptive resilience of Newar ritual specialists, who reinterpret older practices within contemporary frames of meaning.

As a priest, the Gubhaju exemplifies the continuity of institutional religious practice and as a ritual specialist, he channels ecstatic mediation between the human and spirit worlds. His ceremonies and stories reveal a worldview in which spiritual imbalance and cosmic disorder are addressed through personified performance rather than written doctrine. Even as modernity diminishes his everyday presence, the Gubhaju remains significant through legend and selective revival, and continues to bridge the realms of the sacred and the social. He demonstrates that the spiritual life of the community is not confined to texts or temples but through the skill of those who perform ritual.

Stories That Keep Us

Long, long ago, Paruhang, the king of the skies, was teaching Sumnima, the mother -earth manifest, the Mundhum. The teachings were so vast, so endless, that day slowly dissolved into night. Paruhang continued reciting the sacred knowledge, but Sumnima eventually drifted into sleep. Paruhang did not notice her quiet breathing or her stillness. He kept speaking, with words flowing like an unbroken river.

Nearby, a jungle fowl had laid its eggs. Through the sheer force of Paruhang’s recitation, the power of the Mundhum seeped into the forest. By the time night passed, the eggs had already hatched. At dawn, the tiny chick had grown into a full jungle fowl, standing alert and wide-eyed, listening to the Mundhum with little sounds of agreement — “anh, anh, yes, yes.”

When Paruhang finally turned and saw the bird eavesdropping, he tried to catch it. But the rooster darted away in a flash, beating its wings and escaping into the trees.

Paruhang watched it from a distance and declared:

“My descendants will ensure that the power of the Mundhum, one day, must return from you back to me.”

told to me by Late Ramesh Tenchipa, Kalimpong, 2016

Oral stories, as I have come to understand them, hold fascinating details, carefully hidden. The ancestors who created these stories were likely seeking to transmit important teachings. Without the means to record their wisdom in writing, they incorporated their philosophy, rituals, traditions, and understanding of the world into these narratives. While these stories may have evolved over time, their essential core remained intact. Across generations, some regarded these stories as history, others dismissed them as trivial, and yet others classified them as mythology. Regardless, the stories continued to be passed down because they were compelling. But eventually, a few descendants would listen closely, interpret the layers of meaning, and uncover the treasure of knowledge that the ancestors had left behind through these stories.

Long before I ever opened an anthropology book or learned to speak about “narrative epistemologies,” I learned to listen. Not the passive listening we perform in classrooms or on recordings, but the deep, alert listening that requires the entire body. Listening to elders in the winter sun, listening to stories while wood cracked in the fire, listening to the world as though meaning was something carried in spoken verses. Sometimes it took some Charima Waasim (millet beer) to make the elders talk! But when they did, I listened. It was a sophisticated architecture of memory, and knowledge that lived outside of writing. Only later did I understand that the discipline of anthropology had long been making this same point. Societies without written texts do not lack knowledge; they just transmit it differently.

Anthropologists have argued for decades that in oral cultures, like the ones in the Himalayas, knowledge must be renewed through performance. Jack Goody captured this when he wrote, “Every performance is also a creative act and there is no distinct separation between performer and creator.” (Goody, 1998, Memory in Oral Tradition). I didn’t fully grasp what he meant until I began witnessing Tamang rituals where the Tamba walked along the line between narration and action. A story was never simply told. It was enacted, sung, danced, embodied. Even in the absence of a song or dance, it was an animated sequence with dialogues and more often, humor.

Over time, I began to see how oral traditions were not fragile, vanishing things. They were adaptive systems. It was fluid enough to survive political turbulence, migration, external influence, and generational change. A young person might not remember a specific genealogical detail, but they would know the melody of a lamentation, the ritual beat of a Rama Ken or Damphu, the gestures of a ritual dance. These became the axis of cultural identity at moments when written history remained silent.

What struck me most was how oral traditions carried stories that were also theories about life. Among Himalayan communities, a narrative was a way of interpreting drought, illness, misfortune, or conflict. A single origin story might contain ecological wisdom and genealogical knowledge simultaneously. I understood, then, why elders told me that the tiger or bear were ancestors and a bamboo a sibling, or that a cave or hilltop, like Khokwalung, Tuwachung, or Halesi, were sacred because a story had happened there. As Keith Basso observed, “Knowledge of places is closely linked to knowledge of the self, to grasping one’s position in the larger scheme of things, including one’s own community … and to securing a confident sense of who one is as a person” (Basso 1996, Wisdom sits in Places) The more time I spent time listening and traveling, the more I realized that the landscape itself was the archive and the stories were the tools to read it.

What makes oral traditions especially powerful is that they do not freeze meaning. Every telling becomes an interpretation, a way of calibrating the past to the present. People in Darjeeling believe that everyone tells the same story differently and some have even told me that if a story is told exactly the same way each time, it dies. The vitality of the narrative comes from its ability to travel through time. Oral tradition is dynamic because life is dynamic. It moves with people as they migrate, absorb new ideas, change occupations, or reconfigure their social worlds.

In my early years of research, I was troubled by the fact that oral accounts often diverged. I couldn’t understand why the Thulung and the Bantawa had different characters for the same plot. Why were the endings in the stories of Kham Magar different from the Thapa Magar. Two villages separated by a three-hour walk might tell the same origin myth in completely different ways. At first, I tried to determine which version was “correct.” Slowly, I realized that this question made little sense. In an oral culture, accuracy is not measured by fidelity to an original text. Every story has to resonate with a lived experience. A story that fits the social, ecological, linguistic, or moral landscape of a community becomes “true” in its own right.

Oral traditions do something that written texts often cannot. They transmit affect. The sound of a grandmother clearing her throat before the first line of a story, the beat of a description shaped by her breath, the pauses and silences that carry emotional weight; these elements form a sensory field that writing rarely captures. To listen to a story is to feel time differently. Moments stretch, shrink, or fold. The past stands beside you, as if leaning in.

The preservation of oral traditions, then, is not simply a matter of recording them. It is an issue of keeping the relationships alive. As soon as a story becomes something that only lives inside a file or a transcript, it begins to lose the social conditions that made it meaningful. Even the most careful documentation cannot replicate the tone of an elder’s voice or the weight of a ritual moment. Moreover, I believe that stories are to be told, not written, no matter how far the written word may reach.

Today, each generation reshapes the narrative world to express its own concerns. Young people incorporate migration experiences and modern complexities into ancestral tales. They keep the story alive by letting it evolve. In our quest for preservation, we must stay generous enough to let these traditions breathe and modify itself. Oral tradition is a method of thinking. It teaches people how to remember, how to interpret, how to adapt, and how to remain secured in the midst of change.

This realization has transformed the way I see modernity. We often assume that progress belongs to literacy and technology, and oral traditions only evoke a fictional world. I believe in the opposite and that oral forms of knowledge are still relevant. They still offer continuity where institutions fail. Even now, when I return to my ancestral home or sit with elders under the same sky, I am reminded that oral traditions are living, breathing infrastructures of community life. They hold cosmology, ethics, ecology, and emotion in a single narrative. And they remind us that knowledge can be carried in speech just as powerfully as it can be stored in books.

Ultimately, these stories do much more than entertain or explain. They preserve language and identity. Through them, words obtain power as they transmit speech from one generation to another.  Through these stories, communities remember their values, and the relationships with ancestors, land, spirits and each other. They provide a framework for understanding themselves. These narratives that begin simply with “Uhile Uhile” and “Eka deshma”, become maps for moral and social navigation, and a mirror reflecting shared history and culture. Without these stories and without the living practice of telling and listening, we would certainly lose knowledge and also the strands that connect us to ourselves and to each other. And we might never comprehend the invaluable wisdom that our ancestors tried to pass on.

Himalayan ethics

Himalayan Ethics Beyond Moralism

My first encounter with Himalayan Shamanic morality unfolded in a settlement near Darjeeling, at a place known as Thang’Kuh. Elders described it as a site where ancestral presences never withdrew from the landscape. They said the spirits of the ancients stayed there, resting in the caves and the mystical forests surrounding it. I had only begun my research, and my understanding of these worlds was unclear. During the ritual, the Shaman entered a state that allowed the ancestors to speak through her. I listened without knowing what to expect. A question had lived inside me for months. In Himalayan shamanic traditions, did the notion of heaven and hell exist? I never asked anyone. No person seemed capable of a convincing answer. I kept the question to myself and watched the Shaman move through the ritual space. At one point she turned toward me. Her voice changed, and the ancestors addressed me directly. “Hamro maa paap punya hudaina hai, naani.” In our world, my child, there is no sin, no merit.

Years of study and travel through Himalayan villages gave me a passage into moral worlds that never claimed authority from scripture or centralized doctrine. Clan elders described ethics through the movements of ancestral rites, through the dispositions of territorial beings, and through oral narratives and folklore. Their accounts conveyed a system whose logic grew from sacred places, ritual objects, kinship, and invisible agencies rather than from commandments. Morality, then, appeared as an ecological phenomenon. I reached this understanding gradually, after long periods of exposure to rituals where both language and silence held equal importance.

My earliest encounters with ritual elders revealed an idea of purity far removed from codified religion. Purity did not arise from cow urine, sunpani (gold-infused water), or holy water. Some of the substances held ritual significance in specific contexts, but the deeper principle placed purity inside the person. Elders insisted that every birth occurred within a state of natural equilibrium. No trace of original sin surrounded the newborn. No cosmic error demanded correction. No divine being demanded submission. The person entered the world as part of the same order that produced the mountain peaks and the subterranean springs. Purity existed in the same register as geological formation and ancestral presence.

This thought shaped my understanding of why Himalayan cosmologies never gave humans a central position in the universe. Humans occupied one node within a constellation of beings. Spirit masters of the forests guarded their territories with an authority that required respect. Ancestral agents watched over lineages with expectations grounded in memory rather than divine decree. Tutelary spirits monitored the moral temperature of a settlement through subtle signs. Humans engaged with these beings through speech, offerings, libations, songs, dances, migrations, and collective events. Moral life grew from attentive interaction with these forces. And the universe? It did not revolve around the human.

A widely shared position in anthropology is that ritual knowledge emerges from the “thickness” of a local world, and not from abstraction. I was able to comprehend this concept when I sat near shamans before the onset of a trance. Their preparations did not follow the logic of renunciatory paths and simply sought balance with their tutelary spirits. Their bodies served as mediums between the physical world and the divine realm that held ancestral imprints. Purity, in this sense, referred to the capacity to align the self with those ‘energies.’ Impurity arose when the lines between these worlds weakened through forgetfulness or broken obligations. And it wasn’t something that couldn’t be remedied.

During conversations with ritual experts, I encountered another dimension of this moral framework. They described the land as the ground we return to. Death wasn’t clouds in the sky or ripple in the ocean. It was simply a place among the ancestors through the ground into their realm. Sacred stones marked events transmitted through lineage narratives. Forest retained the presence of beings who never entered ordinary perception. Yet their omnipresence influenced crops, as much as the health of households. Morality, therefore, functioned as a form of navigation. People moved through landscapes with an awareness of invisible boundaries and ancestral expectations. A person who acted without regard for these presences disrupted the coherence of the environment. The consequence manifested simply as imbalance inside the local field of life. There was no punishment.

In the highlands, I observed funerary procedures that revealed a refined sense of relational ethics. The dead did not leave the community abruptly. Their passage depended on the correctness of ritual acts performed by kin and shamans. Ancestral spirits accepted the deceased only after the living performed and completed their obligations. Morality emerged here as a collective responsibility. The individual never carried moral burden alone. The lineage absorbed, interpreted, accepted, and redistributed it. This idea dissolved the rigid distinctions between personal virtue and communal order.

A Khambu elder once told me that humans do not pursue salvation through detachment from the world. Salvation, as an external goal, held little meaning. The human task involved the maintenance of balance with non-human entities. The ideal state did not resemble liberation from earthly existence. The shaman’s trance did not aim at transcendence. Everything we do is aimed at reestablishing symmetry in ailments or conflict. The self remained fixed in the social and cosmological weave.

As I spent more time with these communities, I recognized that moral life developed through practice. There was no code here, and definitely no doctrine. A person learned ethics through participation in rituals, songs, dances, interaction with elders, and attention to the moods of territory spirits. The land served as both library and teacher. It carried narratives of past rites. Every household organized its activities around obligations to ancestors who hovered within the domestic sphere. These features shaped a moral universe that remained open and grounded in locality.

Purity, in this moral universe, referred to the human capacity to remain in accord with forces that structured life. It never required submission to a supreme deity. It never demanded purification through external substances. The purity of the human person reflected the purity of nature itself. Mountains did not require sanctification. Rivers did not require ritual washing to legitimize their flow. Humans entered the world through a similar state of inherent order. Ritual practice only served to maintain this condition.

This realization shifted the direction of my perspective. I began to view Himalayan morality as an art of placement. Every person occupied a precise position in a network of kin, spirits, ancestors, and landscapes. Ethical conduct involved the correct calibration of these relationships. A misaligned person lost their sense of direction. A well-aligned person moved through the world with clarity.

After many years, I concluded that Himalayan moral thought resists reduction to doctrine. It expresses itself through practice and relational sensitivity. Humans are pure by virtue of their origin. They navigate a universe filled with autonomous beings who expect recognition instead of worship.

I am not suggesting that the Himalayan worldview is superior to others, nor claiming that its people stand apart from the rest of humanity. I am saying that this, too, is a way of life and that it deserves its place in the global conversation about how humans ought to live. In a world crowded with competing philosophies, with arguments about whose God is truer and whose path is correct, it seems reasonable to ask whether a tradition that speaks quietly of balance might also be heard. The lesson I carried from Thang’Kuh was never about difference or comparison. It was about possibility that moral life can be grounded in the simple work of maintaining harmony with the forces that share our world, and that such a philosophy need not compete to matter. It only needs space.

The Sacred Pillar of the Limbu House

Indigenous architecture across the Himalayas exhibits striking variety depending on the community that created it. The climate, environment and geographic region are factors intimately tied to indigenous designs. The typical Limbu dwelling is a two-storey thatched house built from timber, bamboo, stone, mud and straw, which are all locally sourced items. Its steeply pitched roof and thick thatch are designed to avoid monsoon rain and withstand winter snowfall, and the mud walls effectively regulate temperature and provide durability. Designed with careful attention to natural features, such as rivers and slopes, a traditional Limbu house demonstrates both practical concerns and spiritual beliefs.

At the centre of the Limbu house, both figuratively and physically, stands the central pillar, the Hang Sitlang or Murum Sitlang or Muring Sitlam. This pillar serves as the axis around which domestic life, the memory of ancestors, and the unseen spiritual realms converge. It is regarded, in Limbu spiritual concept, a sacred fulcrum that anchors the household in both material and cosmological terms. As Philip Sagant observed in his ethnographic study of Limbu architecture and ritual:

“The central post of the Limbu house is more than an architectural necessity; it is the axis around which the life of the family, the memory of ancestors, and the communication with the spirits revolve” (L’Homme et la Maison chez les Limbu du Népal oriental).

The Hang Sitlang imparts an immaterial dimension to the house. Viewed in this light, the dwelling, and the symbolism related to it provide a conceptual basis, giving us the right perspective to interpret the meaning of Limbu cultural life and, especially, to comprehend the exact consequences of spiritual and symbolic nature.

As mentioned earlier, this pillar, in Limbu worldview, represents the repository of ancestral memory. Although as a medium that disengages the house as a physical dimension from the subterranean realm of chthonic forces, Hang Sitlang, through ritual offerings, and performing sacrifices, also acts as a sacred stage upon which ancestral remembrance is enacted.

Additionally, within the wider framework of Mundhum (the oral, ritual, and mythological corpus of the Limbu), the Hang Sitlang serves as both ritual pivot and cosmological mnemonic, allowing family elders and Shamans to enact, through chants and ritualized movement, the structure of the universe itself.

As Sagant notes,

 “The shaman’s chant retraces the world’s structure; the house itself becomes the visible form of the cosmos. The post at the centre is the pivot of this world, joining earth to sky” (Sagant, 1985, “With Head Held High: The House, Ritual and Politics in East Nepal”)

The erection of the Hang Sitlang generally coincides with the construction of a new house or the major renovation of an old one. The ritual process begins with the preparation of the site, where a pit is dug at the centre of the house and the pillar is firmly set into the ground. Before installation, the pillar is ritually sanctified by binding it with cotton threads at the top, middle, and bottom, and by sprinkling it with rice grains. A pig is then sacrificed, and its blood poured at the base of the post to purify the contact between the house and the earth. The officiating Shaman invokes the protective deity Okwanama, the “earth-supporter,” and requests protection from illness and misfortune for the household.

In a foundational text, Kiratologist Iman S. Chemjong (1948) outlines the ceremony of erecting the main post:

“When the site of a house is being dug … its centre portion should be dug, a deep hole should be made and a very big, strong and high wooden pillar should be fixed there. … This main pillar of the house should be called, ‘Hang Sitlang’. Before the plantation of this main pillar, the top, the middle and the bottom of it should be bound with a cotton thread and some grains of rice should be sprinkled over them … A pig should be killed and its blood should be sprinkled at the bottom of the post as an offering to the deity Okwanama.”

Once the central post has been installed, the family holds a house-warming celebration to which relatives and neighbors contribute offerings of rice, coins, and beer. A communal feast follows, during which the ritual known as Heem-gey is performed. This is when dancers circle the post three times before dancing throughout the night. In marriage ceremonies and other major rites, Chyabrung or Ke Lang drummers also dance around the main pillar. Descriptive accounts note that during such occasions, the dancers move in repeated circuits around the post.The detailed sequence of actions involved in the installation of the Hang Sitlang reveals that it is far more than a technical operation. The rite constitutes a performative fusion of social and architectural dimensions.

For the Limbu, through the symbolic geography that Hang Sitlang represents, the house itself is also understood as a feminine sacred space associated with Yuma, the primordial mother-goddess of the Limbu. Much like her, the house too represents protection, fertility, refuge, and ancestral continuity. In this framework, the pillar becomes the point where the deity and the domestic sphere converge.

During rituals dedicated to protective deities such as Nahangma, it is treated as the centre of both the ritual field and the physical world of the household. In these ways, the Hang Sitlang successfully transforms from a structural support into a cosmological signifier as a tangible link between protective spirits and their realm.

The ritual significance of the Hang Sitlang, the main pillar of the house, lies deep within the oral universe of the Mundhum. A Mundhum story recounts the moment when the very first house was raised upon the earth by Lokphedemba and Hangphademba.

When the Limbu ancestors built the first house it did not have peace as termites, and malevolent forces gathered around it. They threatened to hollow the wood and bring down the structure. To protect this fragile beginning, the ancestral drummers Laden Hangba and Phungden Hangba stepped forward. They lifted their Ke drums and began to dance around the central pillar. With each rotation, they struck at the swarm of invisible dangers, and with each beat, they sanctified the pillar. Their dance, an act of defense, was an effort to protect the wooden centre of the house, to drive away destructive spirits, and to shield the structure from calamities of wind, fire, and trembling earth. The house endured because the pillar was blessed, and the ground beneath it was made firm through ritual movement and sound.

This primordial act became the template for later generations. In any new house, the Ke Lang or Chyabrung dance is still performed around the main post, echoing the movements of those first drummers and renewing the protective bond between pillar, household, and ancestral memory. In marriage ceremonies, dancers circle the pillar four times, and offer blessings for stability and long conjugal life. Their movements recall the original moment when the house was first defended and the pillar first empowered. Thus, even if the Hang Sitlang rarely appears as a central character in extended mythic narratives, the Mundhum preserves its presence as a sacred centre. Through this pillar, the household is bound to the earliest story of shelter, protection, and the enduring relationship between humans and the unseen forces that move through the world.

As modernization and new architectural practices have evolved, the installation and meaning of the Hang Sitlang have begun to face pressures. Traditional houses and a clearly visible central pillar are now rare, and many new structures adopt modern designs in which the pillar appears only faintly or is replaced entirely. In some households, the post is erected only symbolically or the full ritual sequence, such as thread-binding, sacrificial offerings, or the protective dance around the pillar, is abbreviated or omitted, leaving younger generations increasingly unfamiliar with its cosmological role as the household’s axis and ritual centre.

Despite these changes, the practice endures in many rural areas of eastern Nepal, where new houses still include the pillar and old houses are being preserved. For traditional Limbus, Hang Sitlang continues to be the ritual heart of the house, the axis of cosmos and family, the stage of social and spiritual life. In its erection, connection, sacrifice, dance and invocation, the household is transformed into a sacred space. As the Limbu community navigates the 21st century, the pillar remains a powerful reminder of the continuity of indigenous traditions.

The Old Woman and the Creature

People in the hills say that a strange thing once happened in a quiet valley where the forest stood close to the houses. In that valley lived an old woman named Nangma. She had no family and no land of her own and lived in a cave. She survived by collecting nettles from the forest and boiling them in a clay pot for her meals.

One evening she lifted her bowl of nettle broth. A faint sound came from the corner of the room. She looked up and said, “Who is making that noise? If you are hungry, come share my food.” No one appeared and the old woman finished her broth.

The next day she heard the same sound at the same hour. She set her pot on the floor and said, “Who is making the noise? Come. Eat if you are hungry.”

A khulme kira came out from behind the hearth. It was a white grub with a soft round body. Nangma stared at it for a moment. Her fear faded quickly. She scooped some nettle broth onto a leaf and set it before the grub.

“Eat, little one,” she said.

The white grub stayed near her after that day. It crept close to her hearth each time she cooked. She fed it nettle broth every evening. Its body grew large and heavy and its skin shone like wet clay.

One season her jar of salt became empty. The nettle broth tasted dull without it. She decided to borrow a wicker basket from Bijuwa Khamsik (a Shaman) who lived farther up the ridge. He was known for sharp sight and sharp understanding. He opened his door before she could knock twice.

“You want a basket to bring salt from Tibet,” he said.

Nangma looked startled. “How did you know that?”

“You cannot make the journey. A being in your house can make it for you,” the Shaman said.

“There is no such being in my house,” Nangma replied.

“There is,” he said. “Listen carefully. Put nettles, a clay pot, bamboo tongs and fire stones in the basket. Set the basket beside the creature. Tell it to go to Bhot (Tibet) and bring salt. It will obey you. Take this vessel of burning oil. Hide along the path and watch it. When it leaves its shell and steps out as a young man, burn the shell. If you burn the shell, the young man will remain as he is and he will return with salt for you.”

Nangma took the basket. She returned to her cave and arranged the pot, the tongs and the fire stones inside it. She set it beside the white grub.

“Go to Bhot and bring salt for me, my son,” she said.

The grub pushed the basket slowly toward the forest. Nangma followed it without letting herself be seen. The grub reached a lonely clearing and stopped. The shell on its body opened. A handsome young man stepped out of it and hid the shell under a rock. He lifted the basket and walked toward Bhot without hesitation.

Nangma waited until he disappeared beyond the trees. Then she took out the oil and poured it over the shell. She set it on fire. The fire burned quickly and left only ash.

Many days passed. Then the young man returned with a heavy load of salt. He came to her cave, set the load on the floor and said, “Mother, I have brought the salt.”

The word mother filled her with a happiness she had never known. She understood the change that had taken place.

From that day he lived with her. They built a house in the forest, cleared a small field, planted grain and stored enough food for every season.

Endogamous Marriages in the Himalayan Region

Rethinking Endogamy in Indigenous Contexts

A few weeks ago, I was reading Claude Lévi‑Strauss’ The Elementary Structures of Kinship, where he argues that the incest taboo is a structural necessity that drives exogamy. This, he believes, has persuaded individuals to marry outside their immediate family or clan. Using few words, he explains that customs of cross-cousin marriage too, are examples of elementary structures, and that such marriage rules maintain predictable alliances across generations.

Having long been witness to the prevalence of endogamous marriages in the Himalayas, and saddened by the fact that such practice has endured, I sit down to write this post based on my observations and opinion that may seem anti-traditional, but are, at the very least, forward-looking.

The indigenous peoples of the Himalayas have traditionally maintained a fiercely tribal social framework, and while these cultural norms were once widely accepted, they continue to persist even in the 21st century. Exceptions exist, but in many rural areas, they are still frowned upon.

Endogamy, marrying exclusively within one’s own social or cultural group, is sometimes taken even further in certain societies, with practices like consanguineous or cross-cousin marriages. With the advent of Hinduism and its influence on the region, this practice became further engrained, as the strict caste system merged easily with existing tribal divisions within Nepalese Himalayan society.

However, there are some practical reasons attached to this custom. People often choose endogamous marriages because it helps preserve close social ties. Marrying within one’s own group also protects a shared sense of identity. While traditional societies feel more at ease with partners who understand their family values and traditions, much as food habits, others stress that it ensures that property and inheritance remain within the same group or community.

Nepal’s 2021 census shows that only about 2-3% of household heads nationwide and around 1.6% in the Mountain region are married to someone from a different caste or ethnic group. The data is not comprehensive but it still indicates that exogamous marriage remains infrequent in many Himalayan communities.

Among Himalayan tribes, the practice of endogamy, was a pragmatic choice in the past. But we sometimes do not pay as much attention to the converse, to the significant challenges it could pose in the future. One of the biggest challenges that persists, therefore, is the lack of genetic diversity, which may become detrimental to the long-term health and adaptability of human populations.

When people marry strictly within the same group for many generations, the chances of sharing recessive genetic traits increase, which raises the risk of hereditary disorders. This means that it is likely to reduce overall health resilience, subsequently making communities vulnerable to diseases and environmental pressures. Over time, these genetic bottlenecks could make an impact on the community’s ability to adapt with the changing needs of the modern world.

Strict endogamy carries its own social burdens. As groups narrow and ideas become more rigid rather than organic, living within an integrated and connected framework might become challenging. In many communities, individuals, particularly women, feel the weight of expectation to choose partners only from within their own circle, which quietly limits personal freedom and choice. Demographic pressures too, might increase as smaller groups encounter an even sharper strain due to the gradual shrinking of the numbers of potential partners.

Moreover, when communities stay isolated for long periods, cognitive abilities could be adversely affected. This is not about labeling anyone as less intelligent, but about recognizing that genetic variety often supports wider variation in human abilities.

Limited exposure to diverse customs, languages, values, and the gradual loss of cultural tolerance, now makes it particularly necessary to approach these problems with more urgency. This has the potential to create irreversible division among populations. Over time, it could create a rigid social mindset that resists new ideas and struggles to adapt to changing circumstances.

It should be understood that the clan-based system in the Himalayas wasn’t devoid of exceptions. The classification of clans into sub-clans, a system widely prominent, results from a history of occasional exogamous marriages. Evidence such as the Khambu Pacha system and the clan structures across various Himalayan tribes suggests that exogamy was practiced, at least in part.

Additionally, traditions like bride capture and elopement point to this practice, as such customs typically arose when couples married outside the strict bounds of their tribal system. Recognizing the existence of exogamy does not mean opening a Pandora’s box; it is clear that such practices were already present within our societies, even if only on a limited scale.

Nature favors diversity, and exogamy reflects that principle. Throughout history, human populations have evolved and thrived precisely through intermingling across groups. Many communities owe their resilience and vitality to this mixing. Yet, even among those who profess nature worship, we have often forgotten this fundamental rule: survival and growth depend on interaction, exchange, and the blending of people. Evolution, both biological and cultural, requires that we step beyond rigid boundaries and embrace the diversity that sustains us.

By this, I am not advocating cultural dilution. Culture and tradition can survive only if the people find an environment to thrive. When we look beyond ourselves and engage with other traditions and cultures, we come to understand our own, with more focus. We learn to appreciate both nature’s abundance and the health it provides, and we evolve. This does not mean that we must abandon our roots, but without this openness, our culture risks becoming like a glass menagerie. We may look beautiful, but we would still be confined and fragile.

Finally, we must evaluate the role that women play in sustaining culture. As the primary educators of children who teach language and values, women are truly the custodians of tribal memory. When women are empowered to interact beyond rigid boundaries, they can aid their communities to adapt while also preserving the essence of tradition. In this way, embracing measured exogamy and openness is not a threat to culture. It should be viewed as a pathway to ensure that both people and tradition continue to flourish together.

Perhaps the survival of Himalayan cultures depends less on rigid rules and more on knowing when to loosen them, without, of course, losing your hat. Endogamy has preserved identity for centuries, but exogamy reminds us that growth and resilience often arrive uninvited, usually with a stranger at the doorstep. Our traditions do not vanish when we peek beyond our own circles and they gain depth, like a favorite recipe improved with a pinch of something new. Women carry language, traditions, values, and memory, and quietly guide generations. They are ones who ensuring that the culture survives with a openness and grace.

In conclusion, this is like a delicate balance between preservation and openness, the familiar and the foreign, where the true strength of a people, and the enduring life of their culture lies. Therefore, we must consider to change the tribal mindset and perhaps loosen our rigidity. This is imperative to strengthen our communities by embracing a modest level of exogamous marriage to create a space for new knowledge and perspectives to flow in. This balanced openness can help us remain resilient and adaptable as we face the challenges of the 21st century and beyond.

Why the Rooster Crows

Long ago, when the world was still young, there was no fire in the heavens and no light upon the earth. The sky was cold and pale, and the land lay in darkness. The rivers flowed quietly, unable to glimmer, and the mountains stood like silent shadows.

In those distant days, the Lha, the Sky Beings, looked down from their bright realm and said to one another,

“Without fire there is no warmth. We have light but we need fire too. Someone must go to the human world and bring back the flame.”

They turned to the proud rooster, whose red crest glowed faintly even in the dim light.

“Rooster,” they said, “you have strong wings and a brave heart. Fly down to the world below. Ask the humans for fire and bring it back to us. But remember, do not crow while you are there. Until you return with the fire, your voice must remain silent.”

The rooster bowed his head and promised,

“I will obey, O Lha. I shall not crow until I bring you the fire.”

He spread his wings and flew down through the clouds, past the mountains, until his feet touched the dark soil of the earth. There he found the humans huddled near their hearths, guarding the little flames that kept them alive.

“Kind people,” the rooster said, “the Sky Beings have sent me. Lend me your fire so that I may carry its warmth to the heavens.”

The humans looked at one another. They had long heard tales of the celestial rooster who lived above the clouds.

“We will give you fire,” they said, “but first you must make us a promise.”

“What promise?” asked the rooster.

“Crow for us, just once. We have heard that when the heavenly rooster crows upon the earth, light will come. If you crow, our world will awaken from darkness.”

The rooster’s heart trembled.

“I cannot,” he said softly. “The Lha have forbidden me to crow until I return. If I disobey, I may never fly back to the heavens.”

But the humans pleaded,

“Then choose, Rooster of the Sky. Either return without fire, or crow and bring light to our world.”

The rooster stood in silence, torn between duty and compassion. At last, he whispered,

“If fire must rise and light must live, then so be it.”

He lifted his head, spread his wings, and let out a cry that pierced the dark.

The first crow echoed across the hills, and half the night melted away.
The second crow swept through the forests, and the wind began to stir.
The third crow rang out, and the first golden edge of dawn broke in the east.
The fourth crow burst forth, and the whole world blazed with light.

The humans cheered and danced. Their faces glowed with warmth for the first time. The rooster, his task complete, had given the heavens fire and day to the earth.

From that moment, as the Tamang elders say, night and day began to follow one another. And even now, the rooster still crows at dawn, calling back the memory of that first light when his voice broke the darkness.

Multi-Evidential Analysis of Magar History

The Magars, numbering about 1.6 million in Nepal today, stand as one of the country’s most prominent indigenous groups. Yet their early history remains only modestly documented. This obscurity is obvious: for centuries, the Magars inhabited the marginal zones between rival power centers stretching from the eastern to the western Himalayas. Most existing accounts of Magar history are built on assumptions and speculative theories. Very little scholarly work has systematically examined inscriptional, linguistic, and genetic evidence to construct a cohesive and critically nuanced understanding of Magar origins and historical development.

In Nepal, the Magars inhabit a broad geographical expanse stretching across the western and southern slopes of the Dhaulagiri massif and extending into the mid-hill districts of Rolpa, Rukum, Baglung, and Palpa. Beyond Nepal, sizeable Magar communities are also found in Darjeeling, Sikkim, and Assam. The Magars speak languages belonging to the Tibeto-Burman branch of the Sino-Tibetan family and maintain a distinct social identity shaped by both historical autonomy and cultural syncretism.

As mentioned earlier, despite their prominence in Nepal’s ethnic mosaic, the deeper origins of the Magars—whether in terms of their ancestral homeland, the timing of their migration, or the processes of ethnogenesis—remain insufficiently documented. Various explanations are offered, frequently blending myth, legend, and historical fact. In the absence of continuous written records, the reconstruction of Magar history must therefore rely on the triangulation of inscriptional, linguistic, and genetic evidence.

Historical and Inscriptional Evidence: The “Magarat” Polities

One of the most tangible contexts through which the Magars can be historically located is that of the regional confederacies known collectively as Magarat, literally, “the land of the Magars.” These political entities, identified as Barha Magarat (Twelve Magar Kingdoms) and Atharah Magarat (Eighteen Magar Kingdoms), occupied much of western Nepal prior to the rise of the Gorkha state in the 18th century. Their territories stretched from Palpa in the east to Pyuthan and Rukum in the west, and encompassed key routes of trans-Himalayan trade and communication.

The Magarat polities were not centralized monarchies but federations of local chieftains (thapas, ale, rana, and buda clans), who maintained their own systems of governance, resource management, and defense. They appear to have enjoyed relative autonomy even under the expanding Gorkha kingdom. This indicates a long-standing tradition of localized political authority.

Inscriptional evidence provides a historical source for Magar identity. One of the earliest inscriptional references potentially linked to the Magar people occurs in a copper plate charter issued by the Lichhavi king Śivadeva III, dated to around 1110 CE. The inscription mentions an administrative unit called Mangavara Vishaya, with vishaya signifying a district or territorial division and Mangavara interpreted by several historians as an early form of Magar or Magarat. Such records demonstrate that by the early medieval period, the Magars were recognized as a distinct socio-political community in the Himalayan region.

These polities and inscriptions provide conclusive evidence that Magars active agents in the political and economic networks of premodern Nepal.

Linguistic Identity: Magar Languages and Their Affiliations

Linguistically, the Magar languages provide vital indication of deep historical continuity in the Himalayan mid-hills. The Magar language complex, comprising Kham, Kaike, and Dhut, belongs to the Bodic branch of the Sino-Tibetan family. Each of these dialects displays eras of interaction with neighboring linguistic groups and regional isolation within the rugged geography of western Nepal.

Magar Kham, spoken primarily in the districts of Rolpa, Rukum, and Baglung, is one of the most conservative and morphologically rich branches of the family. Its verbal agreement systems and tonal contrasts display close affinities with the Central Himalayan Tibeto-Burman languages. This means that the Kham Magars were in long-term contact with both the Tamang and Gurung linguistic zones.

Magar Dhut, in contrast, has undergone greater influence from Nepali, meaning that the Magar were in close proximity to administrative and trade centres.

Kaike, a lesser-known variety spoken in the Dolpa region, retains archaic features that link it to early Bodish languages.

Despite their linguistic diversity, all Magar varieties show a common substratum of Tibeto-Burman phonology and syntax, which implies a shared linguistic ancestry extending several millennia. The gradual decline in the intergenerational transmission of these languages, however, signals a risk of erosion of intangible heritage.

Genetic Evidence: Admixture and Population Structure

Modern genetic studies have added a crucial dimension to the study of Magar origins. High-resolution genome analyses of Himalayan populations reveal that Magars share a distinct genetic signature characterized by admixture between Himalayan-Tibetan and South Asian components.

Genetic studies show that the Magars have one of the highest proportions of East Asian ancestry among Nepalese ethnic groups. They share this characteristic with other highland communities such as the Rai, Tamang, and Gurung. One report on population genetics states that the Magar genome contains about 54 percent East Asian ancestry and around 38 percent South Asian ancestry, with a small West Eurasian element. These figures demonstrate that Magar ancestry is mixed and not the result of a single migratory source. Gene flow from northern Himalayan and Tibetan populations has played an important role in the formation of their genetic profile.

This pattern of admixture points to a history of long-term habitation in the Himalayan and mid-hill zones. It suggests a process of multi-directional migration and gradual blending over many centuries, rather than one major influx from a single region such as China or Assam. The genetic evidence supports the idea that the Magars were part of a wider prehistoric movement in which Tibeto-Burman-speaking groups expanded southward into the Himalayan mid-hills and intermarried with earlier inhabitants. Their ethnogenesis most likely took place within Nepal through a long process of demographic interaction and cultural exchange.

Oral Traditions vs. Evidence on Migration

Magar oral narratives recount migrations from multiple directions, north from Tibet, east from Sikkim and Assam, west from the Karnali basin, and south from the Terai. These traditions often feature ancestral figures such as Sing and Chit, or describe movement from a place called “Sim” in present-day China.

While such legends preserve cultural memory and identity, their historical verifiability is uncertain. They likely reflect an indigenous attempt to explain collective origins through mythic geography. When assessed against inscriptional and genetic data, these accounts appear less as literal migration records and more as symbolic representations of cultural exchange and ethnic integration.

Nonetheless, oral traditions remain valuable anthropological sources. They exhibit how communities remember and interpret their past through layers of meaning beyond empirically verifiable history. The synthesis of oral, linguistic, and biological evidence thus provides a more holistic understanding of Magar ethnogenesis than any single line of inquiry.

The cumulative evidence, historical, linguistic, and genetic, suggests that the Magars are an ancient Himalayan community whose ethnogenesis took place within the territorial and cultural boundaries of present-day Nepal. Rather than originating from a single migratory source, their ancestry reflects a long process of interaction between Tibeto-Burman-speaking highlanders and Indo-Aryan-speaking populations of the southern plains.

Inscriptional data indicate that the Magars were already recognized as a distinct socio-political group by the twelfth century, while the existence of the Barha and Atharah Magarat confederacies demonstrates their early capacity for localized governance and territorial organization. Linguistically, the Magar languages reveal deep affiliation with the Sino-Tibetan family, affirming long-standing continuity in the Himalayan region. Genetic studies further corroborate this picture, identifying a balanced admixture of Himalayan and South Asian ancestry components, consistent with sustained interregional contact over millennia.

Taken together, these strands of evidence portray the Magars as a composite and resilient population whose history has been by centuries of adaptation and cultural synthesis within Nepal’s mid-hill landscape. Future research combining archaeology, linguistics, and population genomics would be advantageous to refine our understanding of the Magars’ deep past. More extensive sampling across Magar subgroups, targeted excavation in the Magarat region, and comparative reconstruction of Tibeto-Burman languages could definitively tell us more about the formative evolution of this community.

Retkamaang – 8 Divine Spirits in Khambu Rai Tradition

The Kirati Khambu Rai envision the cosmos alive with a vast array of supernatural beings. In Kirati Khambu Rai culture, these entities are not neatly divided into categories such as “natural” and “supernatural,” or “earthly” and “spiritual.” Rather, the qualities implied by such distinctions are present, to varying degrees, in all beings. Every person, many animals, and even certain objects possess a soul-like, life- essence known as Lawa, which can be perceived through the shamanic authority and invisible in the physical world. In daily life, the Khambu indicate the presence of lawa by pointing to the chest or stomach, while for supernatural entities, they reserve the term Maang. Intriguingly, when a bodiless lawa enters the unseen realm, it can coalesce into the collective Maang. This transition shows a fluid understanding between human and divine in Khambu cosmology.

Maang occupies a central place in the Khambu animistic worldview, for these revered forces manifest as spirits or guardians, each intimately tied to a specific feature of the natural world. Maang can also refer to ancestral spirits who continue to guide and protect their descendants. Among the many spirits in the Kirati Khambu Rai belief system, the Sakela (or Sakewa) Maang holds a prominent position, alongside other tutelary and nature spirits. Beyond these, the pantheon includes eight additional divine beings, each highly esteemed and woven into the spiritual and social life of the community.

These revered divine spirits, collectively known as ‘Retkamang’, occupy a central place in Khambu Rai tradition. In the Bantawa language of the Khambu Rai people, Retka or Rekka signifies “eight,” while Maang, as discussed before, denotes a divine spirit. Significantly, the Khambu pantheon recognizes both feminine and masculine manifestations of these spirits: the feminine forms are called Sakuni Dimani, and the masculine forms Sakuchi Dipachi.

It should be understood that Sakela does not appear to be ‘primordial’ as it is mostly associated with the age of agriculture. In the Khambu spirit pantheon, there are older spirits than Sakela though it would not be right to delimit the historical horizon of Sakela. Some of the Retkamaang, which we shall indicate later, are clearly archaic, but that does not mean that they are “pure” and “primordial.” In the form in which we find it, the Khambu spirit pantheon is even decidedly marked by ancient Kirati occupational influences and geography.

Despite their antiquity, all eight divine spirits remain integral to the Sakela tradition, worshipped during the rite that precedes the Sakela/Sakewa festival. Within the Sakela ritual framework, these spirits are symbolically represented by stones arranged in a triangular pattern, typically placed to the right of a sacred Sakela shrine. The deliberate layout and sequence of the stones reflect the importance of ritual precision in honoring the ancestral lineage.

Although the Khambu venerate a multitude of divine spirits, the Retkamang hold particular significance in defining the essence of Sakela, and highlights the reciprocal relationship between human survival through cultivation and the reverent honoring of nature that sustains it.

These eight divine spirits are:

  • Watupmaang
  • Samkhamaang
  • Helawamaang
  • Budimaang
  • Thampungmaang
  • Baktangchumaang
  • Tampchumaang
  • Silimaang

Watupmaang

Watupmang represents the life-giving power of water. The name derives from the Khambu word for water, Wa, reflecting the reverence for rivers, springs, and other water sources that sustain the community. This spirit represents the vast networks of water and their convergence points, echoing the notion of the sea as a unifying force that nourishes all life. In the Kirat worldview, Watupmaang acknowledges water as a source of existence, an idea deeply rooted in the Mundum (oral narrative of the Kiratis) philosophy, which sees the cycles of the natural world as intimately connected to human consciousness and social life.

Before the Sakela rituals and the consecration of the shrine, all water sources around Khambu Rai settlements are carefully cleaned and purified. This practice emphasizes the link between ecology, and ritual, and it resonates with the etymology of Sakela or Sakewa itself, a term derived from Sakmawa, meaning “life-sustaining water.” Through these ceremonies, the Khambu Rai honor water both as a material necessity and also as a sacred, animating force that sustains their crops and their community.

Samkhamaang

Samkhamaang, known as the spirit of the hearthstones (samkhalung or suptulung), represents the collective ancestors of the Kirat household. This spirit underscores the centrality of the home and family unity, as the hearthstones are seen as sacred spaces where lineage and memory converge. In Kirati belief, the hearth serves as a doorway to the realm of ancestral spirits, thereby making it a focal point for communal gatherings and ritual practices.

Within Khambu culture, the first harvest of crops such as rice, millet, ginger, or cardamom is never consumed without first offering it to the ancestors. Similarly, the annual Chhowa, the ritual worship of ancestors, is observed on the auspicious day of Sakela. In this context, it is only fitting that Samkhamaang, the collective ancestral spirits, holds a place within the Sakela shrine, linking the domestic sphere to the larger spiritual and social life of the community.

Helawamaang

Helawamaang, associated with the monkey (helawa), honors the ancestral spirit of agrarian protection. While monkeys are often seen as crop destroyers, the Khambus have, since ancient times, coexisted with them under an unspoken covenant of boundaries and mutual respect. In Mundhum ritual speech, helawa is invoked to acknowledge this balance: the upper reaches of the farm are left for the monkeys, while the lower plots are reserved for humans. This practice reflects a sacred principle of living in harmony with all of nature’s sentient beings, however paradoxical it may seem. This principle is central to the Kirati Khambu worldview.

Helawamaang embodies an agrarian ethos in which the spirit is honored at harvest as an expression of gratitude for the protection and growth of crops. Furthermore, this can also be considered a ritual affirmation of interconnectedness with nature’s creatures, especially those that symbolize adaptive resilience.


Budhimaang

Among almost all Khambu sub-clans, there is a central matriarchal grandmother spirit, venerated annually alongside the ancestors during the Chhowa or Maangsewa ritual. In the Chamling dialect, she is called Machakomma, while in Bantawa, the term Masngchemma is used. Historical evidence suggests that this divine figure existed during the time of the Kirata dynasty in Kathmandu, as Lichhavi inscriptions refer to a mother deity under the term Matindevkul, indicating her worship in Kirata times.

Collectively referred to as Budhimang, a neutral Nepali term denoting this matriarchal figure within the Kirati pantheon, she represents not only this specific deity but also all female ancestors. Budhimang is a fiercely protective spirit, particularly toward female descendants. She is nurturing yet capable of great anger, embodying qualities associated with female strength and authority. Her presence highlights an ideological continuity within Kirat society, where reverence for maternal lineage and recognition of women’s roles in cultural preservation remain central.

Thampungmang

Thampungmaang, also known as Sikari, is perhaps the oldest divine spirit in the Khambu pantheon. The Khambu Rai believe that the forests are home to countless hunter spirits, and Thampungmaang reigns as their chief. Among the Kulung Rai, this spirit is called Diburim. In embodying the skills of survival and the knowledge of the environment that sustained their ancestors, Thampungmaang reveals the Khambu people’s deep-rooted connection to a hunter-gatherer way of life.

Reverence for the collective hunter spirits through Thampungmaang acknowledges the practical knowledge and ecological expertise of earlier generations. These ancestors demonstrated survival skills in navigating forests and tracking game in an inhospitable natural environment. Within Khambu cosmology, Shamans are understood as a part of these hunter spirits. It is believed that, upon death, a Shaman’s soul does not enter the ancestral realm. Rather, it is merged with these spirits, to become an integral component of the very force that guided them during life.

Baktangchumang

In the Khambu Bantawa language, Baktang means “shoulder.” This ancestral spirit signifies strength, endurance, and resilience. It conveys not only physical power but also a profound respect for human labor and effort. In Kirati folklore, Baktangchumang is associated with the ancestor Chappa, who cleared the forested hills to cultivate millet and establish the first agricultural settlements.

Baktangchumang marks a critical transformation in Khambu Rai history: the shift from a hunter-gatherer existence to a life grounded in agriculture. The spirit reflects the community’s recognition of the skill, knowledge, and persistence required to sustain cultivation. By venerating this ancestral force, the Khambu Rai honor both the practical and symbolic significance of human labor, framing agriculture as a sacred continuation of their ancestral heritage.

Tampachumaang

Tampachumaang is the ancient serpent spirit. The name comes from the Khambu word Pa, meaning “snake,” and signifies the spirit’s role as guardian of the fields. Since ancient times, Tampachumaang has protected cultivated land. Khambu tradition holds that anyone who trespasses into these fields without permission may fall into a state of catatonia or paralysis, which shows the authority of the spirit. After the harvest, the Khambu perform a ritual to honor the household granary, called bhakari, in which a separate Tampachumaang bhakari receives consecration and worship.

Serpents hold practical significance for farmers because they eliminate pests and rodents that threaten crops. Within Sakela cosmology, serpents also symbolize the health of springs and streams and act as indicators of water quality. Tampachumaang therefore functions both as a protector of crops and as a spiritual guarantor of the community’s well-being.

Silimaang

Sili Mang is the last of the eight divine spirits in the Khambu Rai pantheon. The word Sili refers to ritual dance, through which the Khambu Rai venerate divinity and express gratitude, often alongside the rites of the Shaman. In the Khambu worldview, Sili symbolizes the cycles of nature. During the dance, performers emulate the movements of Demoiselle Cranes flying in circles, enacting the rhythms of creation and reflecting the harmony of the natural world. The Khambu believe that Sili rituals have been performed since the earliest days of human civilization. To honor its antiquity and sacredness, the dance is never accompanied by melodic music and is performed exclusively to the beat of drums or cymbals.

Elders who mastered this art form have come to be revered as Sili Mang, ancestral spirits of dance and movement. Following this symbolic tradition, Sili Mang is formally recognized and honored during the worship of Sakewa, ensuring that the ritual, its cultural meaning, and spiritual significance continue across generations.

It is essential that these eight divine spirits be consecrated during the Sakela rituals. Whenever a Sakela shrine is established, shrines for the Retkamang must also be included. In the ritual arrangement, the Sakela stone, known as Sisamlung, occupies the northernmost position. With the principal Sakela idol at the northern tip, the remaining stones representing the divine spirits, except Thampungmaang, are arranged in a triangular or pyramidal formation on the ground.

The shrine dedicated to Thampungmaang is more elaborate than the others. It is adorned with wild banana leaves, bottle gourds (Wabuk), and weapons such as bows and arrows. This distinction reflects the belief that Thampungmaang belongs to a period earlier than the agricultural age, symbolizing a link to the community’s hunter ancestry.

During Sakela or Sakewa worship, the Nakhchhong (shaman) does not perform the rites solely under the authority of Sakela. The hierarchy and cooperation among the Nakhchhongs point to the moral and social order of civilization itself. The ritual begins only when the apprentice or assistant shamans have invoked and recited the Mundum through the Retkamang. Once this is done, the Sakela shaman performs the principal ceremony.

The consecration and worship of the Retkamang within the Sakela framework signify a veneration of the forces that have sustained Khambu Rai life across generations. Moreover, the Retkamang tradition in Kirat culture reveals a sophisticated synthesis of ancestral reverence and ecological consciousness where each spirit embodies an aspect of the Kirati heritage of survival. The worship of Retkamang is therefore an act of gratitude toward the divine powers that guard and protect the community.

Shamans of the Tamu Gurung People

When one closely observes the shamanic world of the Gurung people, the first aspect likely to emerge is a taxonomy of ritual specialists that are distinct in function yet deeply enmeshed in the social order of the community. This is the triadic structure of the Pachyu, Khlepree (or Gyabri), and Bonpo Lama, shamans whose spiritual authority permeates the social, moral, spiritual, and cosmological order of the Tamu Gurung life.

Although the Gurungs mostly follow Buddhism today, they have preserved an unbroken tradition grounded in their primordial customs that preserve the memory of an older cosmology. This spiritual worldview clearly predates the monasteries and mantras of the later faith. The precise timeline when the Gurungs of Central Nepal turned toward Buddhism is unclear, but what remains undeniable is their loyalty to that ancestral vision as they continue to retain a vivid, layered shamanic tradition where nature and humanity, the living and the departed, move together to help retain ancestral memory and ethnic identity.

In part, these enduring traditions find their expression in the rituals of the Gurung shamans themselves, whose practices are meant to ensure a connection between the visible world of the living and the vast unseen realm of spirits and ancestors.

Beyond ritual and custom, the Gurung shamanic complex embodies a broader anthropological principle. The reciprocal entanglement of cosmology, and social organization are all ritual sequences that open up as a site of healing and instruction. It transforms into a performative space where gesture and chant become a medium of discourse between human and spirit, and ancestor and descendant. For both the ethnographer and the attentive witness, Gurung shamanism, thus becomes a living epistemology that consistently demonstrates that ancestral wisdom is perpetually renewed and rendered relevant across generations.

At the heart of this Gurung world of rituals stands the Pachyu, the animist Shaman. He mediates across the porous boundary between the physical and the spiritual, and is generally revered as healer, diviner, and custodian of balance. The Pachyu’s vocation is typically lineage-bound, passed through generational ritual authority, where a child grows under the steady beat of Shamanic chants and drumbeats. Through trance and invocation, the Pachyu is expected to confront afflictions attributed to the intrusion of Ra Lung (restless spirits), Sa Lung, (the wandering of the soul), or the wrath of La Tung (local deities), restoring equilibrium to the afflicted and to the moral order of the community itself.

While performing healing rituals, the Pachyu employs various rites. From soul retrieval to spirit negotiation, or invoking compassion-driven helper spirits of the phu-rhin (higher world) and sam-rhin (lower realms), their functions are both curative and spiritual.

Apart from ritual solemnities, they also act as social mediators in domestic disputes, interpret omens, and guide life-cycle rituals such as birth and marriages. Within Gurung society, the position of the Pachyu is largely hereditary, and is confined to a few clans or thars known for their animistic practice. This continuity reflects the prevalence of a clan-based system through which sacred knowledge and ritual authority have been carefully preserved across generations.   

Khlepree or Ghyabri are shamans who are particularly associated with the Pae or Arghum, the multi-day funerary ritual performed to escort the departed soul safely to the Land of the Ancestors (Mithen). Central to the entire ritual is the phase known as Rhiteba, a performative rite where an effigy of the deceased, often a bamboo frame dressed in the deceased’s clothing, becomes a conduit for the soul or spirit. The Khlepree, accompanied by rhythmic drumming and the clash of large brass cymbals, leads a sacred dance around the effigy. This could be viewed as an appeasement to the soul to release its attachment to the world of the living.

He recites long epic narratives that chart the soul’s journey to the ancestral realm. His chants, called Phepung, are dense with mythic imagery and genealogical memory, as he evokes the origins of the world and the descent of ancestors. To speak them rightly is to renew the community’s link to its divine beginnings, thus making the Khlepree a true keeper of the Tamu oral tradition.

The Bonpo Lama, while less visible in everyday healing, represents the syncretic heritage of Gurung ritual life. Descended from pre-Buddhist Bonpo traditions, though often integrated into contemporary Buddhist system, these priests recite the Pe or Pye-Tan Lu-Tan. These are orally transmitted sacred texts that encode cosmological narratives and mythic genealogies. The ritual language is deliberately archaic, occasionally opaque to lay Gurung speakers, which usually gives the Bonpo the sacred authority of the officiant, while preserving an intangible heritage that bridges the past and present.

In Gurung culture, shamans acquire their sacred knowledge through either lineage, tutelage (under an experienced practitioner), or through spontaneous spiritual revelation in youth. While the capacity to perceive and interact with spirits is considered an innate or divinely awakened gift, often signaled by ancestral calling or life-changing experiences, the practical dimension of shamanic knowledge can only be cultivated through meticulous apprenticeship.

Young initiates, born into shamanic families, begin by observing and participating in rituals alongside elders, memorizing sacred chants, learning the sequence of ceremonies, and mastering the use of ritual instruments. Over time, they develop the ability to channel divine forces and negotiate with spirits. Soon, they are able to internalize the spiritual and symbolic dimensions of ritual, gradually refining their latent shamanic capacity.

For those without shamanic lineage, entry into the Gurung tradition begins with the selection of a teacher, on a full moon day, and the establishment of a formal apprenticeship marked by a humble offering. The student may live with the teacher, assisting with daily tasks while dedicating evenings to learning chants and ritual practice. Over the course of five or six years, the apprentice accompanies the teacher during different ceremonies. He is expected to observe rituals and learn the technical dimensions of the vocation. When deemed ready to “carry the load,” the student masters the three-day Pae ceremony. This rite culminates in the physically and spiritually demanding task of dragging a sacrificial goat in a precise sequence while surrounded by other shamans and veiled mourners. Successful completion affirms mastery of ritual knowledge and composure, marking the apprentice’s initiation as a fully recognized Shaman capable of serving the community.

Observation of Gurung shamanic rites reveals an orchestrated interplay of sound and movement. Drums and cymbals remain the most important tools while other ritual paraphernalia, like umbrellas and ceremonial shields, demarcate sacred space and manifest the cosmological order where spirits and humans meet. Offerings of goats, roosters, rice, and local liquor function as deliberate gestures of mediation. These play a significant role in appeasing spirits, honoring ancestors, and restoring social and spiritual equilibrium. Each element carries multiple layers of symbolism during the rite.

Perception of shamans within Gurung society is nuanced. They have the utmost respect as custodians of sacred knowledge and mediators of misfortune. However, their practices coexist on the sidelines of the Buddhist and Hindu belief systems. Nonetheless, a majority of the Gurungs may attend Buddhist ceremonies and Hindu festivals but the shamanic rites persist as essential, particularly in matters concerning death, illness, and the unseen forces that structure daily life.

The sociocultural role of Gurung shamans extends well beyond the effectiveness of their rituals. By mediating relationships between humans, spirits, and the natural environment, they help uphold communal norms as well as the transmission of knowledge. Their presence reflects both continuity and resilience, demonstrating a Tamu Gurung worldview in which the physical and spiritual realms are closely connected. In the context of globalization, the persistence of Gurung shamanic tradition ultimately highlights the strength of indigenous knowledge systems and the continuing importance of ritual in maintaining social cohesion and community well-being.

Animism is not Primitive

I had always heard of the term animism. Throughout my years learning about my own culture and comparing it with other indigenous traditions across the Himalayas, this word kept appearing in books, articles, and lectures. Scholars and culture enthusiasts used it freely. Some found it fascinating while others dismissed it as archaic. Yet I could not help but wonder, if this word truly captures the essence of our belief system? And if it does, is it really relevant?

The term animism was first coined in 1720 by the German doctor G. E. Stahl to describe a medical idea that the soul directed the processes of the body. Over a century later, the anthropologist Edward Burnett Tylor reimagined the term in a broader cultural frame, describing it as the essence of all religions. Tylor viewed animism as the earliest human attempt to make sense of the world, a tentative, imperfect science, an effort to explain life, the difference between the living and the non-living, the human and the divine.

In modern parlance, however, the definition of animism has evolved. As research has deepened, scholars now describe it as the belief that within ordinary, visible, tangible bodies there exists an invisible, intangible being: the soul or spirit. Each culture has its own distinctive animistic beings and its own elaboration of what the soul is and how it interacts with the world. This perspective moves beyond Tylor’s simplistic definition of animism.

In the Himalayas, this definition is remarkably appropriate. Among cultures rooted in Shamanism, people believe in divine spirits inhabiting natural landscapes, guardian entities that watch over human settlements, and invisible divine forces described in mythology. Himalayan animism is deeply intertwined with the way these communities perceive the world. However, when compared with the philosophy of organized religions, their theological scriptures, melodic hymns, and grand rituals, animism can seem, at first glance, archaic. A larger, more persistent question then emerges. Is animism really primitive?

Let us first understand the word ‘primitive’. From an etymological standpoint, the word primitive comes from the Latin primus, meaning “early” or “first.” Over time, however, its meaning became derogatory. By the nineteenth century, it had acquired a hierarchical meaning, used to describe societies that European scholars believed existed at an earlier stage of human development. This language gradually shaped how indigenous belief systems, including animism, were perceived, as remnants of a less rational and evolved humanity.

Although modern scholars no longer equate primitive with inferiority, the term still lingers in subtle ways. Many tribal or indigenous societies continue to be labeled as primitive, and this notion often becomes one of the criteria for defining a “tribe.” In fact, the very word tribe itself can carry connotations of being regressive. This reveals how deeply these colonial hierarchies of thought persist in modern discourse. The word primitive, thoroughly colonial in its making, continues to carry the popular undertone of being “not modern.” In light of this prevailing understanding of the word, it becomes worthwhile to examine whether animism can truly be called primitive.

If we view animism merely as a shaman shaking to the beat of a ritual drum, we do the term a grave disservice. At its core, Animism is a worldview. It is a way of seeing existence as an indivisible whole. It does not split life into subjects and objects, and understands the world through relationships. Every form of being participates in a network of connection and reciprocity. This perspective finds prominence across the Himalayan region. The Kirati Khambu honor Honkumaang, the river spirit, and Thampungmang, the hunter spirit. The Jirel recognize Phu, the mountain spirit, and Nagu, the river spirit. The Magar people respect Bhume, the earth spirit, and Masto, protective ancestral spirits. The Gurung pay homage to their ancestral mother, and Ghyang, the nature spirits. Across this Himalayan worldview, countless other spirits inhabit rivers, forests, and peaks, reminding us that the natural world is inseparable from human life, and that our existence is merely a small part of the expansive whole.

This is what anthropologists Nurit Bird-David and Tim Ingold describe as a relational epistemology. It is a way of knowing that arises through participation. Bird-David explores this idea in her influential essay “Animism Revisited: Personhood, Environment, and Relational Epistemology”, while Ingold expands on it in his book The Perception of the Environment: Essays on Livelihood, Dwelling and Skill (2000). Both argue that animism is not a primitive misunderstanding of the world, but a sophisticated philosophy of relationship. It is a way of being that recognizes the self only through its connection to others, human and non-human alike.

This concept of relational epistemology represents a deeply sophisticated understanding of how knowledge is born. In the animistic worldview, knowledge arises from participation and relationship. A shaman or the tribes learn from nature by listening or engaging with its flow and entering into dialogue with its spirits. This kind of knowing demands attentiveness and reciprocity. Today, different domains, such as, ecology, phenomenology, and environmental philosophy are being developed through this very concept.  Relational epistemology recognizes that humans are not separate from their surroundings and all sentient beings are a part of a living continuum. It is an alternative view that seeks harmony rather than domination.

Animism invites us to see that consciousness and agency as not confined to humans alone. In this worldview, mountains, rivers, forests, and animals are living presences, capable of acting, responding, and shaping the world around them. A river can protect or punish, a forest can guide or withhold, and a mountain can command attention and respect. This is far from superstition, as it resonates with contemporary ecological and philosophical insights. Thinkers like Bruno Latour (Reassembling the Social, 2005) and Philippe Descola (Beyond Nature and Culture, 2013) describe this as distributed agency. The ability to influence, and sustain the environment is shared across humans and non-humans alike. Animism, in this sense, presents a subtle and sophisticated ontology and it dissolves the rigid boundaries between subject and object, to see life as an interconnected web of beings.

Furthermore, animism offers a sophisticated metaphysics of life and death. In this worldview, death is simply a transformation as the spirit endures, taking on new forms within the world. This perspective requires a subtle understanding of continuity, evolution, embodiment, and, in some sense, spirituality. Even though it does not dwell on theological speculations or scientific notions of nothingness, it offers a distinct way of knowing, that combines spiritual and ecological truths into a cohesive understanding of life. Life and death are part of an ongoing cycle. This dynamic interplay in which humans, animals, plants, and even the landscapes themselves participate, contributes to the evolution and continuity of being.

Animistic thought is also based in careful observation of the patterns and cycles in the natural world. It constitutes an empirical system of active participation and attentive engagement. Cultivated over generations, indigenous ecological knowledge, has often proven more sustainable and resilient than industrial scientific practices. In this sense, animism develops alongside science to form a distinct epistemology grounded in experience and relationships with the world. Its sophistication emerges from participation and a deep understanding of life’s patterns.

Thus, would it be fair to call animism primitive? In the Himalayas, we are not immune to Western thought and ideology. Subtle colonial lenses still influence the way we interpret the world, and the comforts we enjoy are often the fruit of Western science and innovation. But to dismiss animism as primitive is to misunderstand its depth. Animism is neither a relic of the past nor an exclusively Eastern concept, just as modernity is not purely Western. Both are frameworks for engaging with the world. Both are equally capable of revealing truths.

Animism, thus, is about perception. It helps us see the world as a dynamic network of relationships. It teaches harmony and reciprocity, and certainly compatible with scientific understanding. Even if we set aside personified spirits prevalent in indigenous tribal beliefs, animism reminds us that nature is alive and intelligent. Its spirits represent transformation, balance, the power to nurture, challenge, and forgive. In recognizing this, we move beyond ourselves as the center of the universe, and learn to acknowledge that everything around us carries essence. Whether we call it spirit, soul, energy, consciousness, or something else is a matter of personal reflection.

The Boy the Mountains Remembered

They say that long ago, the Sunuwar Koits of Sanalu village used to hunt in the high forests of Chordam. Those were wild days. The mountains were quiet but alive, and men followed the deer into the clouds.

Among the hunters was a young Sunuwar Koits man, tall, quick with his bow, and fearless in the dark. One morning, while chasing a wounded stag, he lost his way and came down to a village called Dunge. There, smoke curled from the roofs, and a young Sherpa woman stood by the stream washing grain.

The hunter greeted her,

“Amaile, can you show me the path to the ridges of Chordam?”

The woman looked up, smiled faintly, and said,

“If you are lost once in these hills, stranger, the spirits will keep you here. Best you stay till dawn.”

So he stayed. Days passed, and the mountains forgot the sound of his bow. Before long, love grew between them, quiet and deep as the forest itself.

One season later, the Sherpa woman gave birth to a son. She waited for the hunter to return. Each dawn she lit a small fire and said softly,

“If he remembers me, the wind will bring him back.”

But the wind only carried silence.

When the time came to name her child, she gathered juniper branches, burned them, and bathed herself in their fragrant smoke.

“Let this smoke take away all that is unclean,” she whispered, “and may my son walk with clear heart and strong breath.”

She named him Nandare, after the wind that had once brushed her cheek when the hunter first spoke her name.

Years later, a Tibetan lama passed through the valley. He saw the boy playing by the stream and said,

“This child carries a light I have seen only in high places. Let me raise him; he will learn the words of the mountains.”

The mother bowed her head.

“If you take him, Lama-la, teach him to remember me, not by face, but by the smoke of juniper.”

The lama nodded and took Nandare to Jiri, where he grew into a wise and kind man. From his line, it is said, came the Nan Jirel clan, children of a Sunuwar father and a Sherpa mother, mountain-born, wind-named, and forever tied to the scent of juniper smoke.

A Tree for the Departed

Many years ago, when my grandfather passed away, the ancestral house in Ghaiyabari, near Kurseong, filled with quiet sorrow. People gathered from nearby villages, women sat close together, weeping in hushed tones, while the men spoke softly of his life, his integrity, and his small but steady kindnesses. The rites were performed in the old way, with rice grains, and ritual speeches that had passed unchanged through generations. When it was time, we carried his body to the edge of the nearby forest, a sacred patch of land that belonged to our family, where my grandmother and uncle had also been buried.

The Khambu Rai people have always practiced burials, though I recall a few exceptions, cases where individuals had embraced the Hindu way of life, and were cremated according to it’s customs. But my grandfather, a devout Kirati Khambu to his final breath, would have chosen no other path but a proper burial, rooted in our traditions. I had never visited that part of our land before. It lay deep within the property, dense with undergrowth, past the cardamom fields, across a narrow stream and a stretch of muddy terrain, where weeds grew wild. Among Rai families in the hills, there are no designated cemeteries. The dead are returned to the very soil they once tilled and walked and spoke to. Perhaps that is where the soul feels most at home.

When the rituals ended, five full days of chants, offerings, and sleepless vigils, a concrete tombstone was raised over his resting place, his name and age etched neatly upon it. At the time, it felt ordinary, almost expected. Yet over the years, I have found myself questioning whether this act truly belonged to our way of life. Traditions may shift with generations, but philosophies endure. And so I am left to wonder if, within the Khambu understanding of the world, the idea of claiming a fixed space upon the earth was ever truly ours.

In recent years, I have noticed how tombstones have quietly become the norm among the Rai people. Without much reflection, many have begun to mark burial sites with concrete or marble slabs, what we call Kapur, as if permanence could grant dignity to the dead. These graves, framed in cement or adorned with polished tiles, have become familiar across the hills. Yet, I often wonder whether this practice actually belongs to our lineage. Even in Nepal, especially in the Jhapa and Morang regions, where British rule never reached, similar tombstones have appeared. To me, these feel like later additions, the quiet inheritance of Christian or colonial influence, rather than a continuation of our ancestral ways.

In truth, a Khambu Rai grave is never meant to defy the seasons or the rain. It is a quiet affair, built to return gently to the earth rather than stand against it. A simple layer of clay is spread over the burial mound. The Khaling Rai dig a pit and cover it with bamboo lattice and straw to make a tomb-house known as Salamkam. While building this tomb-house, the side near the feet of the deceased is made slightly lower, and the side near the head a little higher, so that even in death, the body seems to rest in a natural slope of the land. Upon this chamber, the deceased’s personal items are placed, his walking stick, bamboo basket (doko), and other items.

Among the Kulung Rai people, if a person passes before the age of fifteen, a white mourning cloth, is tied in the names of two female relatives. For those older, four names are invoked, and the cloth remains above the grave for three months, bound between pairs of bamboo poles that sway softly with the breeze. This piece of fabric carries the weight of remembrance. The Khaling Rai grave-house is left standing, but the Kulung, after a year, dismantle it and mark the site with simple stones. This task is performed by two men known as Khamphochim, those believed to be untouched by spirits. When death comes by misfortune, the Chihan Ghar is taken down that very day, a humble gesture to restore balance between the seen and unseen worlds. Nowhere in these rituals lies the intent to immortalize the dead through monuments of stone. The Khambu grave, like the body it holds, must yield to rain and time, returning to soil, merging with the earth, and becoming life once more.

Among the Thulung Kirat Rai, burial is a deeply sacred, highly structured practice, guided by the type of death and the wisdom of the Shaman and the elders. Temporary structures, bamboo markers, and ritual objects are placed around the grave, and prayers are recited for the well-being of both the living and the departed. Even when children die or deaths occur unnaturally, the practices adapt, guiding the spirit without permanent monuments. In all of these customs, there is no notion of raising a tombstone or creating a permanent marker; the rituals emphasize spiritual guidance and ancestral connection rather than concrete memorials.

Why, then, have we come to set cold stones above our dead? If the Khambu Rai people are meant to live by the way of Sumnima (the divine earth-mother spirit), why seek permanence in marble or concrete, when our philosophy calls for harmony with the ever-turning cycles of nature? In life, we partake of the earth’s generosity, drawing nourishment from its fields and forests. In death, we are meant to give it back, to dissolve quietly into the soil that sustained us.

Reverence in Khambu Rai culture is expressed through the Samkhalung, the sacred hearthstone, where our forebears’ spirits linger, quietly watching over the living and guiding the household with gentle wisdom. In contrast, tombstones are not part of this tradition; they mark a space, but they do not nurture the ongoing cycle of life. Would it not be more in keeping with our worldview to plant a tree above the burial mound, a living sentinel that grows, blossoms, and bears fruit? Through its roots, it nourishes the soil, drawing life from the same earth that once cradled the deceased, and in turn sustains new life. In this way, even in death, we maintain our dialogue with the earth, giving back more than we take.

In Khambu philosophical understanding, death is neither a final ending nor a reason for sorrow alone. It is a return, a transformation, a rejoining of the eternal cycle that binds all living beings. To mourn by erecting stones is to misread the philosophy we inherit. As Kirati Khambus, our reverence is expressed through life itself: by planting, by nurturing, by letting the earth bear witness and remember. In this way, the cycle continues, and the memory of those who have passed becomes inseparable from the living world they once walked.

I know that my vision may not dissolve the colonial mindset we have inherited for decades. People will continue building tombstones, just as they always have. Yet I am certain, somewhere, someone will be touched by the notion of staying true to our worldview, even as traditions evolve. If my grandfather, who lived and breathed the Khambu way, were to look upon my perspective, I believe he would have agreed. And in that quiet approval, perhaps the cycle of life and memory will find its truest expression, not in a tombstone, but in the living earth itself.